Whirlpool Washer Error Code LD: How to Fix It

The Logic Verdict

My Take: In the featured teardown, the tech proves that most LD/F9E1/F32 errors come from restricted flow between the tub and standpipe. He walks through clearing the pump filter, confirming the standpipe height, and testing the pump’s windings before swapping parts. Follow his order: verify the drain hose installation, clean the pump path, then ohm the drain motor.

What It Means

The LD code stands for Long Drain. The control expected the tub to empty within about 10 minutes but still sees water in the pressure sensor, so it pauses the cycle and flashes LD (also shown as F9E1 or F32 on some Cabrio/Bravos models).

Common Causes

1. Blocked tub-to-pump path: Socks, debris, or detergent sludge jam the trap or pump filter.
2. Drain hose restrictions: Kinks, frozen sections, or the hose shoved too far into the standpipe create back-pressure and siphoning.
3. Improper standpipe height: Anything lower than 36 in or higher than ~96 in confuses the pressure system and extends drain times.
4. Weak drain pump motor: A seized impeller or open winding (typically 14–18 Ω when good) prevents the washer from moving water fast enough.
5. Pressure hose issues: A cracked or clogged air tube feeding the control board keeps it thinking water is still present.

Step-by-Step Fix

1. Kill power and prep towels. Unplug the washer and have a shallow pan ready—opening the pump clean-out will release water.
2. Inspect the hose routing. Pull the unit forward, straighten any kinks, and confirm the standpipe height (36–96 in) with only 4–4.5 in of hose inserted to prevent siphoning.
3. Clean the pump trap. Remove the lower access panel, detach the tub-to-pump hose, and clear coins, lint, or garment straps from the catch basket and impeller chamber.
4. Test the drain motor. With the wires removed, measure the pump coil (expect roughly 15 Ω). Replace the assembly if it reads open, shorted, or the impeller spins loosely on the shaft.
5. Check the pressure hose. Follow the clear/black tube from the pump housing to the control. Blow through it to confirm it’s not plugged with soap residue and that it’s firmly seated on both barbs.
6. Reassemble and run diagnostics. Reinstall the hose clamps, level the washer, plug it back in, and run a drain & spin or auto test. If LD returns, replace the drain pump and inspect the control harness for burnt pins.

Resources

• Drain Pump Assembly (Amazon)
• Washer Drain Hose Kit (Amazon)
• Pressure Sensor & Hose (Amazon)