Samsung Fridge Error 22E: Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Error

The Logic Verdict

My Take: The 22E error specifically targets the evaporator fan in the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment, not the freezer. This fan circulates cold air. The most common culprits are ice buildup blocking the fan or a failed fan motor. Before buying parts, perform a manual defrost (leave doors open with unit off) to see if melting the ice clears the error. If it returns, you likely have a defrost system issue or a bad fan.

What It Means

The 22E error code signifies a malfunction of the Refrigerator Evaporator Fan. This fan is responsible for moving cold air throughout the refrigerator section. When it fails, you may notice uneven cooling or rising temperatures in the fridge, even if the freezer seems fine.

Potential Causes

1. Ice Buildup: Excessive ice or frost blocking the fan blades, preventing them from spinning.
2. Defective Fan Motor: The motor itself may be worn out, burnt out, or have seized bearings.
3. Faulty Temperature Sensor: A damaged sensor sending incorrect signals to the control board.
4. Wiring Issues: Loose or damaged wires interrupting power to the fan.
5. Defrost System Failure: If ice returns quickly after defrosting, the defrost heater, bimetal thermostat, or control relay may be at fault.

Diagnosis & Repair

Safety Warning: Always unplug the refrigerator before disassembling any panels or testing components.

1. Check for Ice Buildup

• Inspect: The fan is located behind the rear panel inside the refrigerator compartment. Look for visible ice or frost accumulation in this area.
• Quick Fix: If you see ice, turn off the refrigerator and leave the doors open for several hours to let it fully defrost.
• Test: Turn it back on. If the error clears but returns days later, you have a defrost system problem (see step 4).

2. Inspect the Fan Motor

• Access: Remove the shelves and the rear panel inside the fridge to access the fan.
• Spin Test: Try to spin the fan blades by hand. They should spin freely. If they are stiff or stuck, the motor or bearings are bad and the fan needs replacement.
• Continuity Test: Use a multimeter to check the motor for continuity. If there is no continuity (open circuit), the motor is dead.

3. Test the Temperature Sensor

• Locate: Find the temperature sensor on the evaporator coils.
• Measure Resistance: Disconnect the sensor and measure its resistance with a multimeter (set to kΩ scale).
• Verify: The reading should not be zero or infinite.
• Warm Up Test: Hold the sensor in your hand to warm it up. The resistance should decrease as the temperature rises. If it doesn’t change or reads open/short, replace the sensor.

4. Check Defrost Components (If Ice Returns)

If ice keeps blocking the fan, the defrost cycle isn’t working. Check these components:

• Bimetal Thermostat: Check for continuity. It should read low resistance (closed) when cold. If it reads infinite (open) while frozen, it’s bad.
• Defrost Heater: Measure resistance. It should have a specific resistance value (check your manual) and never be infinite (open).
• Control Board Relay: Listen for a click from the control board during the defrost cycle, indicating the relay is sending power.

Resources

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