Error Code: F3 Frigidaire

Frigidaire Oven F3 Error Code: Sensor vs. Control Board

F3 means the oven is reading a bad temperature signal. Here is how to meter the sensor, inspect the harness, and repair the control board like the pros in the video.

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The Logic Verdict: Temperature Feedback Failure

The F3 error code means the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) believes the temperature sensor circuit is out of range. In plain English, the board is no longer getting a believable reading from the probe. That can be caused by:

  1. Failed Temperature Sensor (Thermistor): The probe’s resistance drifts or opens.
  2. Damaged Harness / Connector: Broken wire between the sensor and the board.
  3. Bad Control Board: The sensing circuit on the board (often a tiny resistor or IC) has failed.

What It Means

The control constantly monitors the oven temperature. If the sensor signal jumps outside the safe window, it immediately throws F3 and shuts the bake/broil elements off to prevent a thermal runaway.

Common Causes

Step-by-Step Fix

Step 1: Safety First

  1. Kill Power: Unplug the range or flip the breaker before touching any wiring.
  2. Pull the Oven Out: Give yourself access to the rear panel.

Step 2: Test the Temperature Sensor

  1. Locate the Sensor: Inside the oven cavity, remove the two screws holding the metal rod on the back wall.
  2. Unplug the Harness: Pull it through the cavity or access it from the rear.
  3. Meter It: Set your multimeter to resistance. The reading should be roughly 1.08 kΩ (1080 Ω) at room temperature. If it’s far off, replace the sensor.

Step 3: Inspect the Harness & Connectors

  1. Look for Burn Marks: The video tech traces the two sensor pins all the way to the board. Any discoloration or loose pins adds resistance.
  2. Tug Test: Lightly pull each wire to make sure it’s seated.

Step 4: Repair or Replace the Control Board

If the sensor and harness test good, the fault is on the EOC.

  1. Remove the Back Panel: Usually 8–10 screws.
  2. Document Wiring: Take clear photos before unplugging anything.
  3. Board Repair: The video shows replacing a blown 47 Ω resistor (R40) and, in stubborn cases, the adjacent IC. You can DIY soldering or send the board out for repair.
  4. Full Replacement: If you prefer plug-and-play, swap the entire control board with a new or refurbished unit.

Parts You Might Need

Summary

  1. Kill power and pull the range out.
  2. Meter the sensor—replace it if the reading isn’t ~1100 Ω.
  3. Inspect connectors for burns or loose pins.
  4. Repair or replace the control board if the sensor circuit on the board has failed, as shown in the video.

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