Frigidaire Oven Error Code F1: How to Fix It

The Logic Verdict

I watched Electrolux’s field trainer walk through the built-in diagnostics on a Gallery/Professional machine by holding the first and third keypad buttons for five seconds. Before guessing at F1, get into that service mode, read the stored fault history, and run the component tests exactly like he does—you often find a water fill, heater, or pressure sensor issue long before you need a new control.

What It Means

F1 on these controls is the board telling you it sees something out of range—typically a keypad input or pressure sensor feedback that doesn’t match the programmed cycle. The video proves the control keeps a rolling list of the last three faults (the tech saw an i10 because the water was off), and it will happily keep complaining until those underlying conditions are cleared and the board is recalibrated.

Common Causes

• Entering service mode immediately showed an i10 water-fill fault because the supply valve was closed; that same shortage can trigger F-series complaints when the control times out.
• A contaminated or newly replaced pressure sensor that hasn’t been calibrated yet—the trainer always runs the 13-minute calibration cycle after sensor work.
• A heater circuit that never energizes, which the tech confirmed by clamping an amp meter around the line and watching for the 7–8 amp draw during the Heavy/Power Plus cycle.

Step-by-Step Fix

1. Kill power, then wake the keypad. Restore power, open the door while the lights are still on, and get ready to use only the first three keys across the top ribbon.
2. Enter diagnostics and read stored codes. Hold buttons 1 and 3 for about five seconds until three LEDs flash, then tap button 1 to scroll test 1. The first press shows the most recent code (his was i10 because the water was off), the second and third presses show the older faults.
3. Run the targeted component tests. Keep tapping button 1 to walk the tests: test 5 spins the drain pump (close the door to run it), test 6 opens the fill valve so you can listen for water, test 8 drives the wash motor, test 9 pops the dispenser, and test 12 spins the vent fan. Skip test 7 unless the wash pump is already moving water—the trainer never lets the heater bake in a dry sump.
4. Clear the fault log and recalibrate. With the LEDs flashing, press button 2 once to light every segment on the display; that wipes the stored codes. Then press button 3 to launch the built-in calibration cycle (his unit runs for 13 minutes). Always run this after replacing a pressure sensor so the board understands the new reference point.
5. Verify the heater with the Heavy/Power Plus cycle. Clamp an amp meter on the incoming line, select Heavy (or Power Plus), start the cycle, and watch the draw after the fill completes. The tech saw ~7 amps when the heater energized—if you never see that spike, chase the heater wiring before blaming the board. If the heater checks out, remind the customer to use 120 °F supply water, rinse aid, and the “scrape and load” routine so the control doesn’t time out again.

Parts & Tools

• Frigidaire 154762601 pressure/turbidity sensor

Watch the Fix